![]() ![]() The wedge can be marked with a protractor or a Handi-Square. ![]() Screw the plywood (part C) to parts A and B, keeping the screws into part B behind that line (since the section of part B in front of that line will be cut off). It helps to draw a line from the front-right corner of the 8" piece to the back corner of the middle spacer piece, like the dashed red line in the illustration. Align the back edges and drill pilot holes through the plywood into the outside pieces. You'll also need a piece of 2x4 as a spacer to construct the jig.Ĭlamp the three 2x4 pieces together with part A on the left, part B on the right and a piece of 2x4 spacer between them so that one end of all three is even. The jig consists of a 12-15" piece of 2x4 (part A), another piece 8" long (part B), joined by a piece of 3/4" plywood 4-1/2" x 8" (part C), and a 20° wedge about 8" long (part D), cut from another piece of 2x4. With the jig, it's quick, easy and as safe as any cut on a table saw. Without the jig, these sharp miters are difficult and potentially dangerous to cut. The jig is pretty simple, but it's probably the hardest part of the whole project to construct. By making a fairly simple jig, these cuts can be made easily and safely, working with the 2x4 standing on edge. Since the top edges of the cross pieces are often cut into during use, I've found that it's better to make them easily replaceable.With these, the top surfaces of both sawhorses can be replaced in minutes for generally about $5-6.īecause the design calls for a 20° bevel on the top ends of the sawhorse legs, it is considerably beyond the normal adjustment for table saws (or even miter saws), which only cut to about 45° or 50°. I based all the dimensions here on sawhorses that are 30" tall and 48" wide, which are both taller and wider than most commercial sawhorses. The entire system can easily be built with a table saw in under an hour for about $30 once the cutting jig is made out of some scrap wood. They set up and knock down quickly and easily to take up a minimum of space, and provide almost as much support for sheet goods as a large work table. These sawhorses are made of inexpensive 2x4 construction grade lumber except for some scrap plywood, and some screws. I can't claim to have originated this design for sawhorses - I've seen similar ones in workshops and on construction sites for many years, but I believe I've made some improvements in their construction and an modification/addition that makes them more useful. Once it's damaged, the manufacturer intends them to be thrown away and replaced. The ones I've seen do not have replacement parts. ![]() The complete ones are often made of steel which requires extra care in use or a lot of replacement saw blades when they hit the sawhorse. The complete sawhorses I have seen for sale are either very flimsy or solid but rather expensive. There are plenty of sawhorse brackets for sale, made of sheet metal or plastic and some of them are quite good. They're also handy for supporting sheet goods while you're cutting them. They should be easily portable for on-site work. They raise your work off the ground to make it easier to work on and keep your expensive tools out of the dirt. Almost everyone knows what sawhorses are and what they're for. ![]()
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